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Monday, September 1 For Nicole who found the Rebel hand and foot controls difficult for a "petite" to handle in class: When I was doing my shopping around, I checked out Hyosung cruisers.
They have 2 models, the Avitar GV650, and Aquila GV250. I
loved the feel of the Avitar very tapered tank, 27 seat. Also,
and this is huge - the shifter actually
had 2 inches of front-to-back adjustment! This is totally
separate from rotating the shifter up for foot clearance! This larger bike
actually was closer to the ground and closer for me than the 250.
Be sure in your trials at different dealers to sit on
different-sized bikes they might feel better to you than the small
engine sizes. Monday, September 1 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Rita, Unfortunately, the electrical diagram is very fuzzy, even when printed out, so is very difficult to use. If you look at the bottom of the diagram, the third item from the left is the horn switch and the 7th item in from the left is the horn. Tracing the wire from the horn, it goes to a connector and then leads to the horn switch. This is from what I can tell, not a fused circuit. So, you need to start at the physical horn. Check that the two wires are firmly connected or if there is corrosion. Follow the wires to the connector if possible ... you'll want to check that the wires haven't separated or are loose at the connector. Then you'll follow from the connector to the switch (you will probably have to remove a few screws to undo a cover to see the inner stuff of the horn switch) and check the wire connections and condition there. Along the way you should also be looking at the actual wire for any burns or breaks that expose the inner wire to a frame part it could ground out on. This is not completely unknown ... anything on the front end that moves when we turn the handlebar can rub wires. If you find the problem doing this ... great! If you still can't locate the trouble, now the problem could be with the switch or the horn itself has failed. That takes a bit more knowledge to troubleshoot. Since this is a simple circuit, I'm guessing that a visit to an independent bike shop will quickly reveal the failed part for very little expense. Mama Monday, September 1 Dear VTwin Mama, You should see me riding up on my trike and taking my stool down and getting off and then getting on and pulling my step stool up!! LOL Just can't put too much stress on this leg and knee. My trike is an older style and taller one!!! I enjoy reading your site still!!! Lots of us short people out there but I noticed even the real short ones frequently have 30" inseam!! Not 25" as mine!!! I am just a freak!! Could I ride a Ninja? Just wondered. Might pick up a used one sometime for fun! But actually the doctor is trying to keep me on the trike!! Best to you and stay safe! Joan J. in Hillsville, VA Dear Joan, Although I have not been on an MP3, this is a woman's review on the WomenRidersNow site. You are right ... currently I have makes/models basic information organized by seat height and engine cc size ... I'll consider adding a chart by weight when I've finished collecting the 2009 information. I think that there are an infinite number of body set-ups in terms of torso and leg length ... and it all has to be considered. A 25"inseam is certainly one of the shorter ones I've heard from and poses challenges, especially on the sports-style bikes, which sit the highest off the ground as a stock set-up. Would be impossible to fit on a Ninja ... it depends on how badly you would want that! Mama Tuesday, September 2 Hey There Mama, I am 5'2" and recently got a 2006 Suzuki S40 Boulevard. It's 650cc, single engine, but it's a small bike (350 lbs) so that's a decent amount of power. But the best part is that it's nice and low to the ground! I can sit flat-footed, even with my knees bent a little, and it's very comfortable. It's quite similar to the Honda Rebel, but I find it more comfy--the tank is tapered and rounded at the bottom rather than squared off, so it doesn't poke you in the thighs. I realize everyone has different tastes but I found it to be just perfect. It's a beautiful cruiser style bike and it has that tough, chrome, hang-with-the-big-boys look--in a smaller size! So if you're a little shorter, considering purchasing a bike, and want one that fits you, definitely check out this line! Peace on the road, Amanda Dear Amanda, Tuesday, September 2 More for Neal who has an older gas tank with some pinholes in it: Neal ... I have a '98 Marauder that had several pinholes in the tank ... had the first repaired by a guy that used an epoxy on it. Put tank on bike and discovered another hole, then another ... 5-6 total. I used a product called Water Weld that you can find in the Kmart or Wal-Mart Auto section. It looks like clay that kids play with, I used bout 3-4 tubes of it and went around entire edge of tank ... had no further problems with leaks. It's about $4 a tube. Hope this helps. Andrew. (note from Mama: oh, this is the kind of lovely information one wants to store in the brain for future use ... thanks for sharing!) Thursday, September 4 From Bev, who slid out in rain/gravel and busted her ankle: Thanks so much for your supporting comments! I am doing much better at the present time and am out of my cast and into a "boot" ... its much more convenient. I still cannot walk without crutches but I am able to bear a small amount of weight on the leg. While I was in St. John's I picked up a 2000 Honda Sabre 1100 ... I figured I would treat myself since my holiday was a write off, in the biking sense. I'm really pleased with her. I haven't driven her yet, obviously but I'm hoping to get a ride or two in before the cold weather sets in. I'm happy to be back in my own house, that's for sure and looking forward to riding in a big way. Thanks again!! Bev (note from Mama: I'm glad to hear your ankle is on the mend and love your thoughts on a pick-me-up consolation prize! Thoughts on weather-related oopsies, that are often then meshed with road hazards, both big and small, are important issues to cover and I'm hoping that it's giving others food for thought. May gravel part before you on the road miles ahead in your adventure in riding!) Thursday, September 4 Hi Petra, Dear Kelly, Thursday, September 4 Hi Petra, Dear Penney, Readers, if you're not a Newsletter subscriber ($12/year for weekly issues), this is an example of the type of things that I find when surfing the Internet for the latest news of use/interest to women riders. While I discourage political discussion on the VTM Message Board, as it is highly disruptive to the core mission, discussing all aspects of riding ... there is no reason one can't start a thread so we can have a central place for photos and news we find about Ms. Palin's riding! Mama Friday, September 5 Dear VTwin Mama, I was trying that look right, press right thing. I wasn't sure how they meant to press. I pressed DOWN and no results! Finally the only thing that got me through it is when I jerked my head as far as I could to the right and I made it around. Since then I have found that they mean to press (forward) on the right handlebar to go right. This was made clearer to me by Keith Code who runs the California Superbike schools and was advised to practice this until I could turn the bike in any direction on demand 100% of the time. Does she really mean press forward on the right handlebar to go right? Wouldn't you press forward on the LEFT to go right? (Pressing forward on the left would turn the handlebars to the right .....) Help !!! Since I am trying to develop good technique I would appreciate your clarification on this. Thank you!! Teresa Dear Teresa, Let's first consider our bike and our body. Each has a center of gravity (COG), the place on the object where the mass, or weight, is centered. For a bike that's at the engine; for our bodies that is at our hips. If we keep the our body centered over the bike and the bike is centered, we go in a straight line. We like that! In order to negotiate a turn or curve, we must move the COG of the bike off the center line. We do not do this by steering the front wheel ... we do this by leaning the bike off the center portion of the tire onto a slight position to one side or the other. The proper term is countersteering ... a deceptive term because as noted before, we do not actually steer, we lean. Still, this is the term used. In order to take a curve to the right, we must ride the bike's tires on the right side of center. Now let's try an experiment. Sitting on your bike, with the front wheel pointed centered and forward, lean your whole bike to the right just a small amount and hold the weight with your leg. See how the tire is now resting on the right side off the center? Now, how do we get a motorcycle to do that while we're merrily along our way on the road? Let's stick with the right curve. If we pull the handlebar from the left, we'll get the bike's tires on the right portion. Alternatively, we can press or push the right side and it will do the same thing. No matter how it is accomplished we are actually moving the handlebar the smallest, most imperceptible amount to the left in order to get onto the right portion of the tire. Thus, it's called countersteering! Now, back to your experiment of sitting on the bike. With the bike centered and both feet on the ground, remember that a curve is not steering, but leaning. So, keep the front wheel straight. Now how are you going to get the whole bike to lean to the right? Pull to move the weight of the bike from the left or push/press on the right. Try that for yourself. You are not looking to turn the wheel, you are looking to move the COG weight off center onto the tire portion of the direction you want to go. Most riders find it easier to think in terms of Push/Press Right, Go Right. As Susan noted, it's not a press down, it's a push/press from the side, which can feel like forward! Why do I sometimes refer to it as down? Because my experience level makes it feel like I'm pressing down but the more I think of it I'm pressing forward (the down feeling comes because I'll feel the drop in the handlebar level to that side when I start the learn). Again, we're not steering the front wheel, we're moving the COG off center. Why do some describe it as a shift in their seat? Probably because they are sensitive that their body's COG has shifted. Some find a deliberate seat shift helps them get in to the lean. Heck, I can put a bike into a curve with my knees! The bottom line still remains ... whatever body part gets the bike off its centerline, we have to lean the bike so that the tire is off its center! Mama Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Marcelo, It makes sense that from the very outset of the motorcycle, riders have looked to add their own personal touch as riding was not only a form of transportation, but a lifestyle choice. If you look at a lot of the very early model motorcycles, you'll see that the handlebars were flat, wide arcs. If you think about it, just twist those up, bend the ends for the hand controls, and you have a primitive apehanger! Already in 1925 though, the H-D Streamliner was introduce and you'll see the graceful curve of the handlebar, what I consider the precursor of the apehanger look. By the 1930s, the buckhorn handlebar, although not a very radical rise, was introduced. My guess ... there were a lot of changes in the seating position ... changes that arose from the redesigned frames, suspensions, seat mounting, and front ends ... that needed a new solution to get hand controls at the right position for the rider. I also think it leant a touch of elegant flow to the line of the bikes. The art of customization really took off after WWII, when returning veterans, often with mechanic skills, looked for a hobby. Bikes were stripped of all extras for racing purposes. At the same time street bikes were refitted with smaller tanks, fenders, light elements, and more. One site suggested that a pair of removed crash bars was the inspiration, and while it may have been true for one person, I think more was going on way before then ... let's face it, if someone was interested in motorcycles and studied all previous makes/models, as a true aficionado would do, then the design element was really there from almost the very beginning! Enter the 60s, a time when people started to declare their dislike for anything that was standard. If you wanted an "in your face" reaction from everyone, starting with the manufacturer and ending with the general public, boring out the piston cylinders wasn't a visible way to do it! Rake the front end, lower the seat, get louder pipes ... exaggerate the curve of the handlebar. It simply screams anti- establishment! It's been suggested that motorcycle clubs/gangs, like the Hells Angels, popularized the apehanger look. Formed in the 1940s or 1950s, depending on the source, by the 60s their notorious actions got them media attention. So, if John Smith of Iowa adopted the apehanger to get away from a standard look, it's likely that photo got stuck in a personal photo album, rather than splashed in the newspapers! I read in one place that the high-rise handlebar was to ward off getting cut in the neck by wire strung across the road to hurt club/gang members. That seems a bit fanciful, but who knows! A kernel of proactive riding truth might be embedded in that! My conclusion ... riders wanted different looks and a play on the handlebar design was one way to do it. If you look at the spectrum of hand control placement, it makes sense that it would range from the very lowest to the very highest possible that still allows control of the front end. Then you run out of options! Mama Tuesday, September 9 Dear VTwin Mama, I bought a Honda 750 Shadow last year and went down on my first ride. So I backed off and took the class. After the class I was still pretty nervous so we found a good deal on a new Rebel 250. I love this bike. I have put over 1000 miles on the Rebel and at least 400 on the Shadow. My problem is I find the Rebel way more fun to ride and feel the Shadow is like work. My goal was to get rid of the Rebel and keep the Shadow but there is no way. I wondered am I hurting my skill by riding both. If I keep the Rebel will I never get use to the Shadow? Thanks for listening, Dawnita Dear Dawnita, And therein lies the answer to your question. You don't hurt your skills riding two different bikes; you strengthen your knowledge of what makes sense for you. So, what does make sense for you, and don't just answer that the Rebel is "way more fun." What exactly does that mean? Start by sitting on each bike off the side stand. Compare your body position, butt comfort, reach to hand controls and leg controls, and leg reach to the ground. Can you turn the handlebar on both all the way to one side and still reach the controls without shifting in your seat? Are the hand controls perched on the handlebar differently? Is the heavier weight bothering you? Is one easier to handle in tight turns, stops, etc.? Make a list ... write down specific points and notate which bike you like better for each point. For instance, if the hand controls are closer to you on the Rebel, and you prefer that, the Shadow handlebar could be modified with an inexpensive pullback riser. This is just one example. Now I would like you to think about the type of riding you are currently doing and the goals you have set for yourself. Are you only interested in putting around town for shopping and a bit of fun? In your 1400 combined miles, have you gone out for a 2 hour ride yet? What about a day trip? Comfort on longer rides can best be gauged by actually doing them on each bike. You may find the Shadow is more to your liking on longer rides. Clues on how to make this bike fit you better could come from your comparison with the Rebel. It may turn out you need to consider another bike that combines the power of the larger bike and the fit you're looking for ... and when you are ready, both current bikes get sold for the dream bike! And if you really study the differences, your shopping will be a snap as you'll recognize what is and isn't going to work for you! Start with the list idea and get down to specifics! Mama Wednesday, September 10 Hi there VTM, Dear Pete, In a review of the Frankenstein Trike company, located in Pleasanton, KS, there is definitely a trike kit for 2004 and newer model Sportsters at $5000. In the photo gallery, I also see pictures of a '77 and '03 Sporty triked with their parts. The site notes that a phone call is best at (913) 352-6788 or you can consider contacting an authorized dealer nearest to you to talk out your specific year Sporty for conversion. Another conversion company, Lehman Trikes, also offers an '04 and newer Sporty trike kit, but you'll need to contact the closest dealer for pricing information. I found a few more options by typing in "Sportster Trike Conversions" into a search engine. Mama Wednesday, September 10 For Marcelo who is interested in the history of apehanger handlebars: You're right about the customization for sure. I wanted to add something I've heard ... believe it or not, early ape hangers are thought to have been "repurposed" parts of grocery carts. If you look at a standard grocery cart, you'll notice how the lower part, the part that connects the basket to the wheels, kind of looks like really tall ape hangers. Well, I guess these would be full-sized "old-fashioned" carts. I must be getting old. Anyway, it's another possibility.... Laura (note from Mama: when one considers that the design of a motorcycle is often thought in terms of art, and art is often inspired from everyday items, then one can give some credence to this reported source! It does stretch one's giggle factor though!) Wednesday, September 10 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Murph, I checked my Help By Mfg. and Model page and found the Honda VTX Owners Association site, with a dedicated 1800 tech section ... while I did a quick look through the topics and didn't find anything, it should be worth your time to look more closely and/or register to post the question and get like-minded rider's input from their experience! Once you start drilling, you can't "take it back." Mama Wednesday, September 10 For Teresa who is working on figuring out curve/turn lean/countersteer concepts: I know just what she is going though and I finally mastered that problem. I was always trying to remember the push steering, push left to go left and right to go right? It made me very nervous just trying to remember. So a friend of mine told me to get forget about it and just lean. So my advise is just relax, pull on the left to go right and lean a bit and once it leans give it the gas ... is works very well. Believe me, I was over a year figuring out this out. But it's a lot more fun to relax and lean. I can even pass cars on the highway now. Just relax and lean. It'll come to ya with practice. Anonymous (note from Mama: you've got a point ... sometimes we can over analyze something, which clouds the learning curve. For others though, they get it when a certain combination of words are used to describe a riding technique. That's why I don't mind going over a concept again and again ... either my or someone else's words will make sense to the rider seeking information!) Thursday, September 11 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Ginny, One fills from the right side, which flows into the left side. The important detail to understand is that the low fuel indicator reads from the left side of the tank. So, as you are going down the road, the bike is first using gas from the right side tank portion and then switches to the left. When that gets low, the low fuel indicator triggers. It is not wrong to fill both sides, but not necessary! Mama Thursday, September 11 For Dawnita who is learning to ride on two motorcycles: I love your response to Dawnita who was asking if it hurts to ride both
the Rebel and the Shadow and how she could choose between the two. I
started riding a Harley that we owned, but it was (is) too tall and the
only way I can ride is if my husband gets it out for me. I bought a
Honda VLX600 Deluxe which is absolutely perfect, however, it doesn't quite
have the power that the Harley does so now I am trying to decide how to go
myself and you have given me ideas on how to choose which way to go. Thursday, September 11 Dear VTwin Mama, I then found my saddlebag guardian angel named Al at Accessories International. Al, my sales guy, asked me a number of questions like, did I want fringe, what type of buckles, slanted or boxed style, leather or pleather, etc. He then narrowed my choices down based on the size my bike could handle. Turns out the bags he found were from an associated website. He gave me an additional discount on their already low prices and said I will get it in 5 days! I am not sure where on your site to put this info, but, can you please share with other riders. The site is Accessory International. It is now my goal to let EVERYONE know what a great place this is! Pattie P. Dear Pattie, Hello VTwin Mama, I know you probably want women pics, but I have included
mine, since there are none in the 53 V Star square. Dear J-P, Monday, September 15 For Murph who is looking to drill the exhaust pipe baffles for more sound: The mod for your VTX to drill holes in the stock pipes is called a Clayton Root Mod (also called a Root Mod). There is also the deep Clayton Root Mod. Do a search on the VTXOA or VTXCafe websites for precise how-to instructions. I did my 2006 VTX1300C with 7 holes in each pipe and got a sweeeet rumbling sound (loud, but not obnoxious). It will work on an 1800 also. They also have sound clips so you can hear how it will sound. Good luck. Supertoft (note from Mama: lovely ... a precise name to search on ... thanks for letting us know!) Monday, September 15 Dear VTM, Then I thought maybe I need to run the engine a bit first. After a few minutes still nothing. So I started to put extra oil little by little thinking maybe I miscounted the quarts. After, what I later realized was about a quart and a half more than the specified in the manual, I got the oil to show up in the dipstick and I ran it again for a lap around the block. Several days later I decided to go for a ride and after about 35 minutes of riding I stopped to refuel and saw an oil leak, it was coming from the air cover. I moved the bike out of the way and started to disassemble the bike. I realized it was the extra oil I had put in the engine so I drained the excess oil. After cleaning the bike down I rode back home checking often for leaks, no leaks going home. My question now: do you think I might have damaged
something? And is the bike good to go after cleaning the air cover and air
filter, which I did with soap and everything? Dear Ramiro, You don't mention seeing the correct level on the dipstick after all this ... bike manuals are usually very specific on a dipstick reading or sight glass view ... for most, the bike should be centered off the sidestand ... others are designed to read when it's on its sidestand. A trick I use to center a bike with no center stand is to use a brick under the kickstand to level the bike out. Of course, one can simply sit on the bike centered and let someone else read the measurement! Or you can invest in a front motorcycle stand ... it clamps the front wheel in place and holds the bike upright ... very handy for doing all sorts of work by yourself when you need the bike level. Available at all the big online catalog stores! Let's all remember that it takes awhile for oil to drop down to the bottom of the case, thus the reading is not an immediate one. Usually running the bike a bit will warm up the oil so it more easily collects at the bottom. But you still have to wait up to 10 minutes for this happen once you've shut the engine down. Mama Monday, September 15 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Marianne, Thank you for sharing your thoughts on the Ninja 1400 and how you modified it for fit ... these notes will go into my Motorcycles for Short Riders list ... a great place to get a snapshot on how a certain make/model works for different riders! I also appreciate that you've noted that the Ninja 1400 is not for the newer rider. Sport bikes are geared to be fast off the line, which can really take one by surprise if you're not ready for it. This also alters the learning curve experience because a lot of early riding is to master basic skills at lower speeds, especially those pesky slow turn moves. Having a good grasp of the friction zone and throttle combo is an absolute must! Mama Monday, September 15 VTMama, I'm new to your site and in need of plus-sized durable leathers. After checking out what readers were saying in previous threads, I tried to visit some of the plus sized sites that were offered in suggestion. Some of the links are no longer active...anyone have any new suggestions? Also, a word of advice, Leatherup.com claims to have some plus-sized jackets up to size 3X. However, in reality, they are crazy! I normally wear a 1X to 2X, depending on the brand, but never any larger. I ordered their 3X women's cut jacket in order to have some extra room for warm clothes, but still have the stylish look...I could not even get it zippered! When I called them, the woman informed me that the size is not large enough for my measurements, and I would have to go to a men's jacket which is ordered by chest size. Well, it fits fine in the chest, but men's jackets are not cut for women with wide hips and padded bottoms. I will say this, it is a great online store for smaller women's and men's jackets at decent prices, and they have a nice selection of stylish riding boots. Chris Dear Chris, I obviously cannot know every company out there, but will tell you that my experience with Fox Creek Leather has been a good one ... I got their Vented Touring Jacket to review and it's been a blessing in disguise. I've added 40 pounds to my frame (being a chow hound!) but the jacket handled it ... because it has lovely gathered sides that move with your body! Their sizing is generous in that they will stock, on various jackets, up to 6XL. I see the Vented Racing Jacket is a possibility, but perhaps the style is not what you are looking for. I know on the VTM Message Board, the New Enough site has been talked about lots as a possible source for the plus sized gal ... I'm seeing mostly the sport jacket look ... something I also see at other sites noting they have plus size gal leathers. Ok readers ... please give me input on the plus-size women's leather jacket scene out there! Mama Monday, September 15 Dear VTwin Mama, Now onto my disappointment ... I purchased a item from Road Diva Products (which you have a link to) and they are a crappy vendor. Tried to return it but they don't list return policies on their website. Sent them a email and it took them 4 days to respond which then according to them now puts me past their 10 return time frame. Also, they don't tell you in advance that they will charge you a 20% restocking fee for the return. They are just bad with business. I will be telling anyone I know NOT to purchase from them. I am now stuck with something I can't use!! Boulevardi Dear Boulevardi, "When you place an order on RoadDivaproducts.com, the order is completed and then a thank you page comes up on the screen. It has our return policy there and tells you how long it will take for your order to arrive. I emailed the customer back with information that the vest does come in a larger size. She would have to pay for shipping. Why should Road Diva Products pay for a husband's mistake on her size? She still has time to return the item and the 20% restock fee is a standard fee ... nothing new." Shirley Kline, Owner, Road Diva Products I will simply add that one needs to read return policies carefully ... in reviewing the thank you message, everything is spelled out ... and if one is not comfortable with a restocking charge, that's the time to cancel the order. A mistake in size, or if the fit/style does not really suit someone, can happen. In a review of a few gear sites, including my own pages, I note that the return policy is available for review before an item is selected to place in a shopping cart system. Mama Tuesday, September 16 Dear VTwin Mama, I've looked into the HD Sportster 1200L which I can sit on
flat footed with slight knee bend, but found it to be heavy lifting off
the kick stand. I'm a H-D girl all the way and would prefer to go with
them as my bike ... am I crazy to consider such a heavy bike as my first?
This seems to be the lightest HD made. Dear Anon, Yes, the Sportys, both the 883 and 1200, are the lightest off all H-D models (if you don't count Buell, which is owned by Harley), at under 600 lbs. Would you like to know a trick that reduces the effort of getting a bike off its kick stand by as much as 70% or better? Then I will tell you! Motorcycles are typically parked with their front wheel turned to the left. Turn the wheel to the right. Then take it off its kick stand! Try it with your boyfriend's bike and/or head back to the dealer to try it for yourself. Voila! A mini miracle! Mama Tuesday, September 16 For Bitin' Squirrel who is trying to find a clutch lever solution for her smaller hands: First let me say what a great and well done site ... I am now passing it on to all of the women riders I know as well as informing my buds. Although I am not a member as yet, I do want to point something out that Bitin' Squirrel and everybody missed ... she says the controls on the Buell Blast fit her but she just did not like the bike. Well, it is a Harley so why not just swap the controls and bars to her 883? It is an easy job and a permanent fix. Regards, Ryno (note from Mama: although the original letter is from 2003, I was intrigued with this input because yes, Harley-Davidson has owned Buell since 1998. Anyone with an older Sporty can check into the latest controls offered by H-D, which I know reduce the pull effort, but maybe aren't actually a smaller "footprint" ... and explore a switch with the Buell control set-up idea.) Tuesday, September 16 Hello VTwin Mama, Dear Molly, Tuesday, September 16 Dear VTwin Mama, I look forward to seeing you there!! And good luck with what you're doing, too! Thanks! Theresa Dear Theresa, Thursday, September 18 For Anon who is considering a H-D Sporty 1200L or other H-D as her first bike: I was a passenger on a Harley for many years and then decided to take classes and get my own bike. I also felt that the Sportster was too heavy for me. I am 5'9" without a lot of upper body strength. I decided to purchase a Honda Shadow VLX 600. It is a very pretty bike and very easy to handle. There is a great deal of chrome accents on it that makes it look like a Harley, but without high cost. In fact, I have had people say that they were surprised that it was a Honda. It has a lot of power and was very easy to learn to ride. I hope this helps you decide on your bike. Have fun!!! Petunia (note from Mama: I think it's useful to keep an open mind ... a new bike can be a lot of pressure on a new rider ... now you're worrying not only about yourself and working on skills, but the condition of chrome and paint.) I bought a Rebel 250 first but it was awkward to me. You'll see a photo in the Fit Charts now. Maybe I have long legs? My next bike is an HD XL1200L which I love (so far). I found a few things helpful for kickstand issues-especially as I too am a newbie. I exercise regularly-so I upped the leg exercises weights on the leg machines. I also practice one legged balance exercises with my eyes closed to improve my sense of balance. When I get on, I carefully at first practice shifting the motorcycle gently side to side, occasionally going a little further keeping aware there IS a point of no recovery. This serves as an exercise AND to help me get a grip on the weight and balance of the bike itself. The 1200 is about 8-10 lbs lighter (weird huh?) than the 883. Many people get 883-but then want a 1200. I decided to skip the 883 step especially since the 1200 is slightly lighter. (Just makes me feel better I guess) I live on an inclide that slants in the street forward upwards, and downward to the left-so it was hard to get it off the K-stand-but I can do it alone now, thanks to the exercises and also to this idea that I am the boss of my k-stand. At least in the driveway LOL. TTFN, Trish (note from Mama: thanks for sharing that exercise makes a big difference in your overall experience!) Thursday, September 18 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Buubi27, If you take a look at the Honda Fit Chart page, you will see that riders shorter than you are riding stock set-up Rebels. The Rebel is in fact designed to ride with two people if desired, so your weight is not an issue. What I will point out is that our inseam measurement varies with body size, so checking your leg reach to ground while sitting on a bike is important. Small differences to be flat footed can be most easily handled by the type of riding boot you have/choose. I'd look for any used, cheap, but running bike available in your area ... take a look at my Motorcycle Engine CC chart for other models to consider! Mama Thursday, September 18 Dear VTwin Mama, It was great, but I dumped it maneuvering parking lots 3 times in 3 weeks because it was top heavy and seemed really long - mostly I think it was because the seat was too high (my legs are too short). Then I dreaded stopping and maneuvering, which wrecked the fun. So I was intrigued by the Piaggio MP3 with the two wheels in front and traded in the Burgman and it has been an absolute nightmare! The seat is three inches higher, you don't lock the wheels until you are almost stopped - my hands are too small to be braking and pushing the button - balance is still a huge issue because my feet barely touch - so in traffic, four-way stops any stop and go is crazy!! On the road, it is fun, but not as responsive as a 2-wheel. So, I dropped down to a 250 Rebel and it is like riding a toy - no power, no fun. I have sat on, but not ridden a 600 Shadow and it seems bulky, heavy for my little frame. I sat on a Harley Nightster and it felt great, but is it too much (power, weight - weighs 545 versus Yamaha V-star 513...which would only work if the seat was lowered - how low can it be lowered and it still has the wide bulky gas tank). All scooters seem to have really high seats, otherwise they would be my preference (does a lower seat scooter exist?). An ideal bike for me would be around 400-600cc, 24" high seat with handle bars that still allow me to sit up (short arms, too). Does it exist? I know my age also limits my agility, confidence, and balance - but I think that I have - maybe - 20 years before I should consider a trike... what do you think? Thanks so much, Jan S. Dear Jan, First I want to point out that just about any motorcycle seat height can be wrangled into submission for a shorter rider ... read the intro section of my Motorcycles for Short Riders page ... these are the discussion tools you will use when talking with a dealer's salesperson. Lowering the suspension ... usually 1" is good but no more than 2" is recommended. At the same time you'll want to bring the front forks down to keep every as level as possible to the original design. And keep in mind that just about any handlebar can be moved closer to you for the right fit by adding a pullback riser ... this is an inexpensive modification and a salesperson should be able to discuss this. On this same page you'll find the abbreviated list of how certain height women made a bike fit them! The lowest seat height of all stock motorcycles is 24.5". A list, organized by seat height can be found at my Motorcycle Seat Height chart page. Here you will also see the engine cc and bike's weight and can quickly print the page and then highlight the ones you would like to look at. If you would prefer, you could organize your thoughts around the Motorcycle Engine CC chart page, which lists bikes by ascending cc size. What's leaping out at me right away? The Honda Shadow VLX and VLX Deluxe, but you're noting that if looks bulky to you in the front end. How about a Ridley with its automatic transmission like a scooter? 24.5" seat height, rides beautifully, and about 480 lbs ... but a higher price than the metric bikes. How about the Buell Blast (sport style) at 492cc, 25.5" seat with the lower seat option, and 380 lbs. I'd also check the Suzuki Boulevard S40 ... getting lots of reports that smaller women really like the sleek front end and very narrow seat ... 700cc, 375 lbs, 27.6" seat height that can be lowered. I'm hoping these lists will help you noodle out your next look-sees! Mama Thursday, September 18 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Toni Ann, Thursday, September 18 Hi Mama, Gosh, I wish I could show every street rider how to ride in the dirt. No one would fear gravel, sand or dirt again. Here's a great article by Angie Loy on the subject in Motorcyclist magazine. Your readers might also like this 3 1/2 minute slide show! Bonnie Warch, MSF Certified Dirtbike Coach Dear Bonnie, Thursday, September 18 Dear VTwin Mama, One thing that has contributed to our tremendous success is the fact that we listen to and learn from our customers. This is particularly true of our Chix eyewear. Although the wants and needs of women who ride are quite diverse, there are some common features that we are all looking for in sunglasses and goggles. First and foremost we bring to our customers eyewear that protects the eyes from sun, wind and debris. Equally as important, we offer eyewear that fits well and is comfortable. These are the essential elements for any type of riding sunglass or goggle. Then the fun part begins...the style and bling! We have found that women who ride all want a little something different in eyewear fashion. Some are looking for a simple, traditional wrap and others want a little sparkle glistening off their sunglasses as they ride into the rally. This is precisely why when you look at our website you will see such a wide range of sunglasses for women. As you prepare for the road ahead, remember to protect your eyes with quality eyewear. Patty Popovich, Owner, Pacific Coast Sunglasses Dear Patty, In looking through the wide-range product line, I'm seeing prices range from $10.95 to $19.95 ... nice! I'll also point out that there is a women's special goggle product ... and for my men readers, there is certainly a lot of selection for you to consider (including four goggle lines!). Mama Friday, September 19 Women's Ride, Millstone, NJ, Tomorrow!!! Hi Everyone!, Xtreme Machine is at 700 Highway 33 West. The ride leaves
at 2pm promptly!
Lisa, Xtreme
Machines Friday, September 19 Yamaha Mini Report Dear Readers, New Models: The big news has been about the new 1679cc VMAX but I'm just as happy to see something sandwiched into the V Star line-up ... the V Star 950 and its touring sister! And in the sport-style line-up, you'll see that the FZ6 now has an addition, the FZ6R. Seat Heights: The Stratoliner S has dropped down 1.1" ... and the FJR1300A and 1300AE have a new adjustable seat with a range of 0.8" (and we'll take any inch or so that we can get!). Weights: You'll see that every 2008-2009 bike has a second number in its column ... that's because in '08, Yami reported the dry weight of the model ... in '09 we're getting the wet weight (i.e. with fluids, which in my estimation makes a lot more sense!). MSRP Prices: $100 to $600 jumps and a side notation that for anything but the stock color, expect to see another $200+ tacked on when you go to look more closely. Other Notes: Nada! Mama Friday, September 19 For Jan who has ridden a lot of motorcycles but still looking for the best fit overall: I agree that the Buell Blast might be the perfect bike for Jan. It's in the engine and seat height size range she is looking for. It is my go-to-work bike and is very peppy in rush hour traffic. Too buzzy on the interstate, though. If Jan test rides the Blast and feels it is underpowered, she might consider the Buell Lightning XB12Scg. It is low enough for my husband to flatfoot with his shorter inseam, so it would be no problem for her at 5'. Only comes in 1200cc new, but the 900cc can be found used if you look hard. The 2006 models are proving to be the sturdiest. I still love my Lightning Long and had a great time spring break riding it all through the Georgia mountains. However, I've asked my dealer to find me a CG and will trade when she does. Cheers, Sarah (note from Mama: aha! Thanks for mentioning the XB12Scg ... I see now that I didn't call out the 4 variations from the 2008 line-up, thus missing that the cg version is 2" lower in seat height. Yikes! Readers, the Buell 2008-2008 comparison chart has been updated to reflect better information!) About Jan's quest for a bike that is comfortable and fits. I just wanted to let her know that the Ridley really is a great bike. I have a used 2003 Auto-Glide for sale...only 3,600 miles on it and at a fraction of the price of a new one ($11,000). If she or anyone else is interested, I'm in Suffolk, VA and will consider delivery within a reasonable distance, with a delivery charge added. Please email VTwin Mama and she'll put you in touch with me. I am 5'1" and going to buy a touring trike ... that is the only reason I would be selling my Ridley. Joan (note from Mama: got and will pass on messages from people who may be interested! ) Dear VTwin Mama, I did well in the MSF class but on the day I got my bike, I stalled out and while trying to re-start, I did something wrong and dropped it (somehow gave it too much throttle) and took a nasty spill. Nothing major but a laceration on my thigh that required stitches. As such, my confidence has been terribly shaken. I have been practicing in parking lots but I need help knowing WHEN to shift. If I am in gear and I just roll off the throttle, will the bike eventually just cut off from not enough power being supplied? Can you use the brakes without pulling in the
clutch??? I think I recall from my MSF class that this is a major NO-NO!!! Could you please expound more on engine
braking?? Thanks for all of your helpful tips!!!! I refuse to
give up although I am very frustrated right now. Dear Deb, Sit on your bike in 1st gear and the clutch lever pulled in. Give it gas. Is the bike moving? No. You can give that bike all the gas you want and it isn't going to go anywhere. The point I'm trying to make? Whenever you feel you're moving too fast or have accidentally given it too much gas ... pull the clutch lever in ... as this is what immediately removes the power from the transmission! With the clutch lever in, it doesn't matter if you goose the gas ... you still aren't going anywhere. Next drill. Slowly let the clutch out with no gas. See, you have forward movement, but then it will shudder, stall, and die because you didn't give it any gas. Now, how far could you let that clutch lever out before it happened? Is it right at the beginning of the full range of that lever ... more in the middle ... further out? This is important to understand. Start the bike up again and then let the whole clutch out in one motion ... it just stalls and dies ... but with an added jerking motion for your troubles. A better way ... give the bike a bit of steady gas and then slowly let the clutch out to the point where the tranny engages. If the bike starts shuddering, you're not holding steady gas. If the bike doesn't move forward smoothly, you still need to work on the amount of clutch you're letting out. Your goal is to duck walk (feet paddling on the ground at the side) in a steady and controlled manner using a bit of steady gas and "slipping" the clutch lever in and out of the engage/disengage point. Learning the engagement point and the amount of steady gas needy is important for all smooth starts and any slow turns you'll be working on as you polish skills. This cannot be over emphasized. I have traveled to teach riders on sports-style bikes and found this to be more "touchy" than say a cruiser-style motorcycle ... for the very fact that sport-style bikes are aggressively geared ... 1st is designed to really "get up and go." Keep at it though and you will learn the nuances. Now, when to shift. In this question I am now assuming you have never driven a stick-shift car. When I talk about listening to the engine, it's because you can hear a change in the sound as you pick up speed. You can also feel that the engine is reaching the end of its range. With a tachometer, one could call out a number range; without, it's by sound and feel. Here is a page of sound clips. Listen to the Honda Shadow, then listen to one that calls out a hard accelerate. Can you hear when each shift occurs? If you shift too soon, when you go to give it gas, it will feel sluggish. If you shift at the high end of the gear, all of a sudden you are propelled forward very quickly. Obviously we're aiming for a middle ground. The caveat is that sport-style bikes like the Ninja (repeating myself) are geared to move quickly forward, so the gear change is typically sooner than later (it reaches its high end sooner than a cruiser would). In your parking lot practice, with plenty of straight line room ahead of you, move forward in 1st gear and listen and feel. Yes, if you roll off the throttle, eventually the bike will sputter, stall and die ... unless you pull in the clutch lever. What determines if the bike gets jerky or leaps forward ... it depends on how touchy the throttle is and where in the speed range of that gear you are. At all times you are looking for smoothness. Again, it's a challenge, especially for a new rider. Yes, you can use the brakes without downshifting if you are just looking to bleed off some speed temporarily. Yes, you can pull in the clutch and brake all the way to a stop. But then you're still in some upper gear and not ready to start again in 1st. Bikes prefer to be in motion when shifted, so sitting at a stop light and downshifting to get ready is not the greatest ... what if the light changes before you're done? Take off in 2nd. Well, it isn't that you can't do it ... but try it in the parking lot practice and you will see that you'll have a sluggish response from the throttle ... remember that shuddering? There it is again. Now on to engine braking. Each gear has a range to it ... just as you wouldn't want to try to ride at 70mph in 1st gear, you wouldn't take off from a stop in 4th gear. Why? Because each gear is lined up in order and handles a range of speed. If you're cruising in 4th gear nicely in the midsection and downshift to 3rd, you'll be at the high end of the 3rd gear range. You'll notice that it takes a bit more throttle action from you to keep it at the same speed. If you're in 4th gear midsection and downshift without giving it much throttle, the bike will naturally slow down ... this is what is called engine braking. The gearing slowed you down, not the use of brakes. When approaching a stop, use your brakes slightly as this signals those behind you that you'll be slowing down. Downshift and move smoothly forward but slower. Still too fast, use a bit of hand/foot brake ... approaching nicely, downshift. There is no way for me to tell you exactly at what speed to do each shift ... if you're looking at the speedometer, you're not looking at the traffic and gauging your distance to the stop. It's a combination and only practice will get you to understand the various combinations you can use. None of this is going to hurt the bike in the short term while you're learning all the little nuances. Remember that with a lot of slow speed practice to rest yourself and cool down the bike every 10 minutes. If you continue to have real concerns about shifting and coming to a stop, consider calling the course and asking if any of the instructors offer private lessons. A few sessions may bring this all together for you more quickly and diminish the jitters ... Mama Monday, September 22 Hi VTwin Mama, Dear Christine, I'm wondering what boots you are wearing and if an inch or so addition to the sole might not be the solution. Boots that have the sole stitched to the upper leather can be modified by a good shoe repair shop. It's hard to say ... let's get some more input from you on the things I've mentioned and we'll keep noodling it out with you! Mama Tuesday, September 23 Dear VTwin Mama, There really is no expiration date on safety or defensiveness. I have noticed myself that some people tend to drive more recklessly around cyclists than cars. They are more likely to tailgate cycles, cut off cycles. They know they have the car's protection, and the cyclist is in a poor position to be getting testy with a rude driver. I think there is a myth that cyclists can avoid most anything that is thrown at them. I try to keep escape routes in mind. TTFN, Trish Dear Trish, While I think that the choice of riding gear and bike set-up can make a difference, I still think that a rider's skill set is the most important proactive tool. And it can be practiced! No matter what motorcycle someone is riding, the specific handling characteristics of the motorcycle must be a known entity. This includes quick stops, swerve to avoid obstacles, awareness at all times of our "outs," and going down with/ditching the bike. But how do we know when which technique will serve us best in a given situation? That's where brain training comes in ... if we practice every once in awhile to retain skill information, then when the brain has to make a snap decision, it's likely to judge things more accurately. If a car makes a left turn in front of you, depending on your speed and the distance to the car, the brain will most likely "check" to see if it has stopping distance memories stored ... and whether it's possible this time, in time. But how is the brain going to help you if you haven't practiced quick stop drills to store those clues? Now if we add bright reflective colors, loud horns, flashing headlights, and a hot pink fake Mohawk hair piece to our helmet, we've got a better chance than ever! Mama Tuesday, September 23 Hi VTwin Mama, First, I ride a Yamaha Roadliner, 113 cu inches (1900ccs). I got it in March after waiting a year and a half for the red color to come to my dealer. First, it's an all aluminum frame, so it's about 100 lbs lighter than my previous bike, a Yamaha Roadstar. That was a beast to manhandle. The Roadliner is soooooo much easier to handle for me. My problem is the hydraulic clutch. With RA hands, there isn't much strength left, and I need whatever ease I can get. I forwarded the info on the Easy boy clutch to my husband to see if it'll work for me. Anyway, I've been riding for 4 yrs. I started out on a Yamaha VStar 650 and outgrew that in 2 months. I graduated to a Kawasaki Drifter 1500ccs. That was very top heavy. Then I got a Yamaha Roadstar 1700cc. It fit me perfectly (5'8", 230lbs). After riding my husband's Roadliner, I was convinced it was the way to go. It's longer, and even with risers it's a stretch for me but not uncomfortable. It rides like a Cadillac and we ride long trips when my hands allow me to. I have a Corbin Stinger seat so it helps me sit lower. Anyway, you have a wonderful website. I'm forwarding to the other girls that ride in my STAR chapter. It's now on my favorites list too! Good work! (my nickname is crash. let's just say it's out of the way now!!) Desiree G., aka Crash Dear Desiree, Thursday, September 25 VTM to have a bit of fun that benefits you! Dear Readers, In an ongoing desire to connect with our group, PCS has sent 11 pairs of sunglasses and goggles for me to test and review! Today I'll be heading out onto back country roads to put them through the paces, looking at issues on comfort, protection, and yes, even styling! So stay tuned for that review early next week! Then I'm going to give away the majority of these products to my readers ... whether you're a visitor to this main site, a Newsletter subscriber, or a member of the VTM Message Board. I'll be putting together one of my fun contests ... a silly number guessing game ... but we'll also ask you to share your main concerns in finding good riding eyewear. So, be thinking about that. Until then ... Mama Thursday, September 25 For Deb who is learning on a Ninja 250 ... is it the wrong bike or even a "death bike"?: My MSF course stable was mostly Rebels but included a couple of Ninja 250s. I don't think they would put a death bike in the rider course. Only one person did not pass the test, and she was on a Rebel (and loaded up with lots of husband baggage). Fear not, Deb! Regards, Sarah (note from Mama: just about any bike can get a new rider in trouble ... I think it's more about polishing skills in baby steps than the actual bike itself ... but you've got to respect the process. I also know that when things aren't going right, seeking information on the Internet can be good ... like finding the VTM site! Who knows what experiences that rider had to call the Ninja 250 a death bike ... but I'm guessing it had more to do with not practicing in a planned out manner and thinking through how a bike actually works.) Thursday, September 25 Dear VTwin Mama, I felt so good that I bought myself a Yamaha 650 VStar. In the show room I sat on it and it felt very good and I fell in love with it. The day they delivered it I thought, "What was I thinking?" Well, it has been a year and I have ridden it about a dozen times (lousy weather in Toronto). I have an overwhelming fear of riding this bike. Just thinking about it I get nervous and butterflies in my stomach. I make up excuses why not to ride and I pray for rain. When I took the course I loved the feel of riding... maybe I am a 250 type of gal... which I can live with. Should I give it another try with a 250 or should I give up trying to ride? Please help me decide. Confused in Toronto Dear Confused, The key now is to put together a battle plan, so let's do that together. From this letter, I noticed that you didn't mention that you have a significant other in your life that rides. In fact, this may extend further in that you really don't know any one in the area to turn to (at the moment). The mentoring you received in the training course, and the shared experience with your fellow classmates, boosted confidence but you also had clearly defined steps from the instructors. 1) Contact riding groups in your area, attend a meeting, introduce yourself, and find a mentor. Right off the bat I found the all-women Ontario Chrome Divas and Motor Maids, as well as the all-riders Southern Cruisers and the All Canadian Motorcycle Enthusiasts, And there are more! Feeling a bit unsure about making contact by email ... I found that these organizations each had a booth at the 2008 North American International Motorcycle Supershow in Toronto ... and the 2009 one is coming January 2-4! So now you can go to the show and visit booths, say hi, talk it out and move forward with a group that can assist you ... and bring that "yahoo, I've got riding buddies" feeling into the game plan! 2) Weather can hamper riding time and as you've noted, it's played a part in your overall experience thus far. Consider taking the course again next spring. That'll refresh the practice drills in your mind and then you can hop right onto your own bike, doing those exact drills. Perhaps you recall the various drills ... write the |
